Maintaining Lacrosse Equipment for Longer Life

Why a Little Maintenance Goes a Long Way

Grassroots lacrosse in the South West asks a lot of your kit. One weekend you're on a firm pitch in Gloucestershire, the next you're scraping mud off your boots in a Devon bog, then hauling everything back into a car boot that smells faintly of last week's rain. Add salt air if you're anywhere near the Cornish or Dorset coast, and it's a wonder anything survives a season intact.

The good news is that most lacrosse gear doesn't fail suddenly. It wears out slowly, and the warning signs are usually visible weeks before something snaps, cracks or starts stinking. A regular twenty-minute tidy-up routine will keep your equipment safer, more hygienic and far more pleasant to put on. It will also save you money, which matters when you're a student, a parent or a club volunteer funding kit out of your own pocket.

Sticks: Strings, Shafts and Sweet Spots

Your stick takes the most punishment and deserves the most attention. After every session, wipe the head and shaft down with a damp cloth and a little mild washing-up liquid, then dry it properly. Mud trapped in the stringing dries hard and changes how the ball sits in the pocket.

• Check the mesh or traditional stringing for tears, stretched pockets and frayed sidewall strings. A pocket that has bagged out will cost you accuracy long before it actually breaks.
• Look at the shooting strings. If they've gone slack or started to fray, restring them. It's a ten-minute job and it restores your release.
• Inspect the shaft for dents, hairline cracks and bends, especially near the head and the butt end. Any alloy shaft that has creased should be retired, not taped over.
• Replace grip tape when it gets slick. A stick that slips in the wet is a stick you'll drop at the worst moment.

One South West specific warning: never leave a stick in a hot car boot or a sunny conservatory. Heat softens plastic heads and warps them, and it ruins stringing tension. Store sticks upright, off the floor, in a cool dry place.

Helmets: The One Piece You Cannot Skimp On

Helmets are the item where maintenance is genuinely about safety, not just longevity. Give yours a proper inspection once a month, and always after a heavy knock.

• Check the shell for cracks, deep gouges or any sign of delamination. A cracked shell means the helmet is finished, no matter how new it looks.
• Inspect the cage or facemask for bent bars, cracked welds and loose fittings. A bent cage reduces visibility and offers less protection.
• Test every strap and buckle, including the chin strap. The helmet should sit level and stay put when you shake your head firmly.
• Look at the internal padding. Crushed, hardened or missing foam means it can no longer absorb impact properly.

Wipe the inside with a mild antibacterial wipe or a diluted sports wash after use, then let it air dry fully with the padding exposed. Never soak a helmet, never put it in a dishwasher, and never leave it to bake on a car dashboard. If your helmet has taken a serious hit, replace it - even if it looks fine.

Gloves and Padding: Mud, Sweat and Salt Air

Gloves and pads hold sweat, mud and bacteria, and that's what turns a kit bag into something nobody wants to open. Brush off dried mud first, then wipe hard-shell areas with a damp cloth. Many removable liners can go in a cool wash inside a pillowcase or laundry bag, but check the label first and skip the fabric softener, which clogs technical fabrics.

Dry everything thoroughly, ideally outdoors in the shade or in a well-ventilated room. Radiators and tumble dryers will crack foam and shrink palms. While you're at it, check for the following:

• Split seams and popped stitching on gloves, shoulder pads and elbow caps.
• Flattened or crumbling foam in shoulder pads, rib pads and goalie chest protectors.
• Missing buckles, velcro that no longer grips, and elastic that has gone slack.
• Throat guards and goalie-specific kit, which should be checked as carefully as a helmet.

Balls, Boots and the Small Stuff

Lacrosse balls go greasy over time. Wash them in warm soapy water, dry them, and keep them away from gritty tarmac that scuffs the surface. Don't leave them outside over winter, as freezing and thawing can affect the rubber. For boots and trainers, knock the mud off straight after training, pull the laces out occasionally, and check studs for wear or cracks. A stiff brush and a warm bucket of water will do more for grip and comfort than any expensive spray.

Storage and Travel: Beating the Damp

The South West's damp is your equipment's real enemy. Mould thrives in a sealed kit bag in a cold garage or a shed with a leaky roof.

• Never pack wet gear away. Hang it up at home and leave it overnight before it goes back in the bag.
• Choose a bag with mesh panels or leave zips open between sessions so air can circulate.
• Store sticks upright in a cool, dry spot, not leaning against a radiator or lying on a concrete floor.
• Keep a cloth and a small bottle of mild cleaner in your bag. A quick post-training wipe is the easiest habit you'll ever build.

Aim for a weekly five-minute check, a monthly deeper clean, and a proper end-of-season audit when you can replace stringing, tape and worn padding before the new season creeps up on you. Do that, and your kit will be ready for every session, whatever the West Country weather throws at it.